Kiekhaefer Mercury Remote Project
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 9:54 am
These remote controllers are a bit strange - they were the first single lever version for the Full Gear Shift motors in the late 1950s. Here in the UK the pitch up on that auction site, from time to time. I remain indifferent about buying them a. because they seldom have loom and or keys for the e-start motors b. they have complex multi-part innards and are very heavy c. the cables it uses are hard to find now d. the 'square' MerControl remotes that followed in the early 60s are interchangeable for all the motors that the 'teardrop' versions fit and I think are more tactile / have a better 'feel' / throttle throw. BUT the early ones are beautifully designed and made. No doubt cost was an issue, hence the move to the MerControl units.
Needlesstosay, I did buy one awhile ago for not much money and it was inctact (but without keys) and complete with a good loom and decent cables. It arrived and was put away for a rainy day.
First job was to dismantle it all - hence the need to take pics...And start the paint stripping. This one was overpainted with a fetching gold. They were always cloud white and a 'wrinkle' finish. Paints like that are readily available in rattle cans in the US, but I will use a plain gloss RAL 1015 or Ford Wimbledon White if I can find a small enough can.
The little vanes are time-consuming to remove paint from, but we need a sharp edge to the paint to bring out the best features.
The decal was in good condition - new are available at a price, but they're pliable and sticky backed. The old versions are glued on with a blob of adhesive..in the same way face plates are glued onto the early autotrannie twins. DON'T try to pry them off unless you are sure they'll come, if you get it wrong, the decal can crack and worst of all pull the paint off the back of the plastic. In this case I knew the paint on which the glued decal sat, had biodegraded. If they don't come off just mask around and work the paint off.
to be continued...
Needlesstosay, I did buy one awhile ago for not much money and it was inctact (but without keys) and complete with a good loom and decent cables. It arrived and was put away for a rainy day.
First job was to dismantle it all - hence the need to take pics...And start the paint stripping. This one was overpainted with a fetching gold. They were always cloud white and a 'wrinkle' finish. Paints like that are readily available in rattle cans in the US, but I will use a plain gloss RAL 1015 or Ford Wimbledon White if I can find a small enough can.
The little vanes are time-consuming to remove paint from, but we need a sharp edge to the paint to bring out the best features.
The decal was in good condition - new are available at a price, but they're pliable and sticky backed. The old versions are glued on with a blob of adhesive..in the same way face plates are glued onto the early autotrannie twins. DON'T try to pry them off unless you are sure they'll come, if you get it wrong, the decal can crack and worst of all pull the paint off the back of the plastic. In this case I knew the paint on which the glued decal sat, had biodegraded. If they don't come off just mask around and work the paint off.
to be continued...