It's all pretty straightforward to replace, you may find that you need plug leads too when you remove the coil as the moisture gets in the end and starts it crumbling.
The coils are screwed down to the baseplate but the clearance on the hole is quite generous meaning that on re-assembly it is possible to have the coils too far out so they hit the inside of the flywheel. OMC have a special tool for setting the position of the coils but it is no more than a ring that you push the coils out to i made one from MDF with an inside diameter about 1mm smaller than the inside diameter of the flywheel. Not essential but just take care when installing the flywheel that nothing is rubbing.
As Sean Nos mentioned, be sure to keep the wire from the condenser and the one from the coil low and away from the flywheel on re-assembly if not the flywheel rubs away at the insulation and eventually it earths leaving you short of a spark.

Nice little motors albeit somewhat rattly but good workhorses and nice and simple which is a bonus these days.

Nice to know another one is being preserved

Mike Vincent at South Coast Marine can supply most parts, without massive shipping costs or duties / post office 'handling' fees. He has all of Bombardier's old stock. Failing that Hank at American Marine can source.

Thanks very much for the advice and infomation will be ordering the parts today best regards liz

i have now got the two new coils and condensers... plug leads and points seem ok. But have a couple of questions.
When I removed the coil the plug lead was just glued in to the coil with a pin coming out of the coil which appeared to push into the plug lead copper wires is this correct, I have just offered a new one up by pushing the pin into the end of the plug wire and then realised I had not put the rubber boot on, with it on it makes it hard to see where your putting the pin,is this normal proceedure, the other thing I noticed is that the screws supplied with the coils are too long,and two of the old ones came to grief I am afraid,who ever put this outboard together did not want it to come apart again,thats for sure so I now need to find some new screws as I am afraid it would grate on me not to put a perfect screw back in,OCD kicking in there sorry! Any idea where to get these from .I also need to make a disc as suggested to get the distance right for the coil from the flywheel many thanks Liz

You're on the right track, it's a pain to get the wire home and boot flush; some sikaflex the wires in position. The whole job is a bit fingers and thumbs... If you can let me know how long the coil screws are I am sure I have plenty new lying around and if you need anything else that I might have in the parts bin. Don't worry about a disc, just ensure that the heel of the coil is flush against the lug on which it sits, should be inline when looking from the vertical - push against the heel with your thumb and then tighten the coil screws down tight. Put the flywheel on and rotate it clockwise by hand, with the plugs out, and listen for any scraping which might mean the heels are proud and touching the flywheel.

Thanks for your kind offer of the screws ,as luck would have it I found a couple in the bottomless box of bolts that my neighbour gave me when he moved house ! Well rebuilt it only one spark, rebuilt it double checked it only one spark
Which is frustrating,i wont go on but it is rebuild number five ...but I am much quicker at it now !ha ha ! the only two things I have not replaced are the points which seem OK and the plug leads which seem flexable and not perished,plug caps clean and not loose, could it be the spark gap,if so would you be good enough to let me know what it is ,they are both opening and closing. Thanks in advance Liz

To eliminate the chance of a faulty plug cap or lead or points, swop the ones from the cylinder that work to the cylinder that doesn't one part at a time, you will soon find which component is faulty.

Have you tried re-gaping the points? I know you haven't changed them but they could still be out, I did them several times on my Fastwin before it ran just right.
The points should be at .020" on the high point of the cam.
I always gap my plugs at .030"

Thanks for the advise will try gapping the points and swapping leads thank you

I have now got two good sparks so have put it all back together and changed the perished fuel lines, I now want to fire it up,but this outboard came with the original fuel tank which has a twin line from the tank one for air and one for fuel,
This is a new one on me and I can't see for the life of me how the carb will prime,with no means to pump it,does it then prime it by pulling the starter cord ? I feel rather silly I can usually work things out, but I am scratching my head this time,all suggestions welcome thanks in advance.