Something a few of us have been trying to get to the bottom of recently is the difference in construction between the Tremlett and Stapley hulls. The Stapleys seem to suffer far less with the delamination problems seen in many of the Tremletts now so there must be differences beyond just the shape alteration.

All indications seem to lead to the fact that the Stapley shells were made by Tremlett Skicraft and finished off by Ray Stapley but there is obviously a difference somewhere, did they spec a different glue on their orders or did they end up making hulls themselves with later models and adopt a slightly different process?

My Tremlett hull is glued with the Cascamite type, brittle (now anyway) powder glue however Alacrity's Stapley that I've been working on is glued with the black Resorcinol type glue.

On looking through some old paperwork from Tremlett's yesterday we discovered a statement from them saying that the hull was glued with "BIP-303SM" glue. Upon searching google I have found no reference to it so I wandered if that rings a bell with anyone?

I was also intrigued yesterday..did you see this?

http://www.bip.co.uk/products-adhesives.htm

edit..later:

http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/ ... 9&cmd=show

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/thr ... ted.57812/

Good Evening Gents,
I could have got this wrong as it seems too simple an answer, but I had heard (chat at a CMBA event somewhere) that the basic difference is the type of glue. One was apparently water based? Knowing my luck it wont be that simple but though I had better share that snippet. Take Care. Kgarla

Years ago I used “Cascamite”, you can still buy it as “Resintite”. It’s certainly mixed with water and yes it is brittle. That said, a properly made joint will be very strong, exceeding that of the wood. However, again years ago, I discovered that it is NOT waterproof, that is you should not use if where it is long term exposed to water and or moisture.
It has the advantage that it is easy to prepare and use. Make sure joints are well clamped so the gaps are minimised so just a thin layer binds the wood.
Aerolite 306 is much stronger and, I recall waterproof, it is however two part, one part applied to one side of the joint and the other (an activator) applies to the other part. Again, from memory the activator is/was formic acid fo care must be taken about handling. Joints must be well clamped until set.
All for memory folks.
I’ve used Resintite recently, looks and feels like Cascamite, still works well but although the item will get wet from time to time, it will not need to be waterproof.
Hope this helps.

Interesting! The two part system applied one each to different surfaces would certainly be ideal for laying up a hull as I'm guessing it doesn't start to cure until the two meet?

Hi All

We have a Whittrem from the mid-60s. It was a Tremlett hull, finished off by Andersen Ridgeon and Perkins at Whitstable - so similar to the Stapley boat.

Unfortunately it suffered storage damage and the keel, transom and lower hull rotted. In the late '80s I repaired this using 1/8" mahogany veneers. I wasn't sure what glue to use, because the original glue seemed quite dry and there was some de-lamination, where the hull had been stressed by uneven loading on the trailer. I considered cascamite, but in the end used epoxy resin (West or similar, I think).

The veneers were laid 4-up, compared to the orignal 3-up construction and the keel was a rather chunky hardwood, compared to the original softwood. Obviously my glue, was not the glue used orginally, but it made a effective repair. I replaced the transom completely with marine ply.

Cheers

Andrew

In 'Motor Boat and Yachting' February 25 1966 in a two page article on Tremlett it says 'Tremletts use a very active CIBA glue which cures at about 72 degrees centigrade'. Could it be that different glues were used depending on what boats were cold/hot moulded and at what temperatures?