Rebuild Started - Wooden Runabout - now finished Jan 2021
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:14 pm
Hi Guys,
If you were reading the general forum section in July, you may recall me posting some shots of my boat under 'New Member - Beal Park'. I said there that once I started the rebuild I would transfer to this section - well its here! I stripped out the hull this weekend and made a start.
I have posted some photos on Photobucket as they are too big to get onto here - http://s1342.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... r/library/
I have a few tricky problems to solve (i had already voiced this on my first post) and I am looking for experianced advice (please not give up now!) For some reason only beknown to the builder, steel screws were used in the hull - nowhere else. These have reacted to the poor quality over filler used and gone rusty, pushing up the filler whilst it was in storage -34 years. Its a bit of a mess in truth, but the upside is there is no rot anyhwere and no delamination of the ply.
I have taken out a few screws as a test - see shot of three rough looking holes where they have come out. They do come out and the screw thread is rusty so I don't think I can just overfill the head and leave them.
Advice please on what to do next as there are over 200 of these little bad boys - the screws are about 3inch centres but that varies and they are about half an inch in length. The ply hull to frame would as a take a bigger gauge as a replacement.
So do I take them all out:
1) Refill the holes with JB weld (already advised as product from this site) Drill and rescrew using a larger gauage into the original hole. Some of the screw tips have broken off in th base of the hole, so would require drilling out - probably a challenge as a hard material surrounded by soft equals a drilling problem in my experiance.
2) Just use a larger/longer gauge without refilling. Placing new holes adjacent if required as an old bit of screw is stuck at the base)
3) Fill old holes and then drill between the old screw holes and fit into new centres, between the old postions. Would that create 'weak line' along the screw runs as they would in effect have holes every 1.5 inches - (with the old holes filled with JB Weld)
4) or any other suggestions.
Plus what material should I use for the new screws stainles steel, brass or the marine stuff which i can't remember the name of right now!
You can see from the shot of the internal structure there is only a very minimal occasional opening on the paint where the hull ply and frame meet. This does not expand even when I stand on the bare hull. It all seems very well glued and firm.
Is it worth baring the wood and neatly running a fibreglass tape over this internal seam joint for strength?
I am obvioulsy planning on taking all of the paint off the deck and external hull.
This will only be the start of the questions I am sure as when I get to the finishing tasks I will need much advice on paint, varnish, application etc. I haven't got anybody locally as far as I can tell as I have asked on the fourm for local members to get in touch, but sadly nothing as yet.
And finally - check out the boat name. This is why the boat survived! when it was named in the late 50's it had a very different meaning. The bloke who had it previously got so fed up of the comments made when he turned up for his boating, that he laid the boat up and said it would not see the light of day until the world changed. Well we all know what happened..............Question is; do we keep the name for old times sake or change. The jury is out at this end. My dear lady says change it (or else) but some mates say keep it for the laugh - I think that will be on me...........? Plus as the name saved the boat from extinction, it seems somehow fitting for it to stay. Maybe I should have a vote...
And very, very finally, I ams till looking for a 30/40hp ouboard as suggested by this site for power..........anybody know of anything?
I look forward to your help.
Cheers.
If you were reading the general forum section in July, you may recall me posting some shots of my boat under 'New Member - Beal Park'. I said there that once I started the rebuild I would transfer to this section - well its here! I stripped out the hull this weekend and made a start.
I have posted some photos on Photobucket as they are too big to get onto here - http://s1342.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... r/library/
I have a few tricky problems to solve (i had already voiced this on my first post) and I am looking for experianced advice (please not give up now!) For some reason only beknown to the builder, steel screws were used in the hull - nowhere else. These have reacted to the poor quality over filler used and gone rusty, pushing up the filler whilst it was in storage -34 years. Its a bit of a mess in truth, but the upside is there is no rot anyhwere and no delamination of the ply.
I have taken out a few screws as a test - see shot of three rough looking holes where they have come out. They do come out and the screw thread is rusty so I don't think I can just overfill the head and leave them.
Advice please on what to do next as there are over 200 of these little bad boys - the screws are about 3inch centres but that varies and they are about half an inch in length. The ply hull to frame would as a take a bigger gauge as a replacement.
So do I take them all out:
1) Refill the holes with JB weld (already advised as product from this site) Drill and rescrew using a larger gauage into the original hole. Some of the screw tips have broken off in th base of the hole, so would require drilling out - probably a challenge as a hard material surrounded by soft equals a drilling problem in my experiance.
2) Just use a larger/longer gauge without refilling. Placing new holes adjacent if required as an old bit of screw is stuck at the base)
3) Fill old holes and then drill between the old screw holes and fit into new centres, between the old postions. Would that create 'weak line' along the screw runs as they would in effect have holes every 1.5 inches - (with the old holes filled with JB Weld)
4) or any other suggestions.
Plus what material should I use for the new screws stainles steel, brass or the marine stuff which i can't remember the name of right now!
You can see from the shot of the internal structure there is only a very minimal occasional opening on the paint where the hull ply and frame meet. This does not expand even when I stand on the bare hull. It all seems very well glued and firm.
Is it worth baring the wood and neatly running a fibreglass tape over this internal seam joint for strength?
I am obvioulsy planning on taking all of the paint off the deck and external hull.
This will only be the start of the questions I am sure as when I get to the finishing tasks I will need much advice on paint, varnish, application etc. I haven't got anybody locally as far as I can tell as I have asked on the fourm for local members to get in touch, but sadly nothing as yet.
And finally - check out the boat name. This is why the boat survived! when it was named in the late 50's it had a very different meaning. The bloke who had it previously got so fed up of the comments made when he turned up for his boating, that he laid the boat up and said it would not see the light of day until the world changed. Well we all know what happened..............Question is; do we keep the name for old times sake or change. The jury is out at this end. My dear lady says change it (or else) but some mates say keep it for the laugh - I think that will be on me...........? Plus as the name saved the boat from extinction, it seems somehow fitting for it to stay. Maybe I should have a vote...
And very, very finally, I ams till looking for a 30/40hp ouboard as suggested by this site for power..........anybody know of anything?
I look forward to your help.
Cheers.