Lyman On The Water

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Alien
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Lyman On The Water

Post by Alien »

Finally launched my rebuilt Lyman after 11 months rebuild.
Just the cushions and canopy to go.
She ran well, only issue is not sure if the alternator is charging the battery; because of the speed limit on the rivers I am turning only 1000RPM and I am not sure if this is enough for the alternator to do its job. Anybody got any ideas?
Its a ford 1600gt engine.
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rnb
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Re: Lyman On The Water

Post by rnb »

When the engine is switched off - the battery output should be around 12v . The voltage across the battery terminals should be greater when the engine is running 13-14v ? with the alternator functioning correctly .

If its a question of low engine rpm , you could change the pulley on the alternator for a smaller one to increase the speed of the alternator .

I used to run my boat with the same engine all day or more without an alternator , just relied on a good quality 110ah battery .

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Rapier
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Re: Lyman On The Water

Post by Rapier »

Nice to see it back on the water again - you've done a wonderful job!
Fasten bra straps and remove dentures...

Alien
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Re: Lyman On The Water

Post by Alien »

rnb & Rapier, thank you for the reply and info.

rnb, another question if you have the time. The engine has an oil cooler and exhaust heat exchanger, but seems to run very cool; after an hour running I can hold the block and rocker cover without burning my fingers! Is that normal for this engine fit?

All best.

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Alacrity
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Re: Lyman On The Water

Post by Alacrity »

Sounds too cool for me if only running at low rpm on the river I would take the oil cooler out of the system as this will over cool the oil at these speeds/loads. See this very informative post by Andre/solitaire a short while back:-
Hello guys - just seen this thread re engine oil pumps, my expierience for what it's worth!
Having almost lost a couple of big diesels in motor yachts due to leaks and fractured oil pipes because of these things - over the past years I have thrown them as far as I could manage! - I think they are only any good if you want something to polish!
Anything conected to the sump is a possible source of danger (fatigue cracks - loosening, etc) epecially on boats used in open water where there is a good bit of thumping and vibration - I hope you won't ever see anything like this on a serious power boat.
The best way to get the oil out is with a separate pump, the ones with a suction tank from Clark tools or Seely are very good and you can have a beer while the oil is being sucked up the dipstick hole!

Another cause of many premature boat engine failure and the cause of much engine wear and damage is the fitting of a cold water pipe in the sump to cool the oil. - usually done by boat manufactureres with no research into the consequences.
Oil temperature needs to be high, and preferably, controlled - the best type available now is the modine type cooler, (as used in the automotive industy) whereby the engine coolant - often at about 100C) is used to maintain oil temperatures
How many marine fitters have stripped old boat petol engines and found piles of grey sludge in the sump and oil galleries (sometimes blocking the crankshaft oilways) - we researched this, and found it was pure lead! - washed out of the petrol - in one instance it took two of us to lift and old Austin water cooled sump because the grey lead was about 3 inches deep! (Of course It doesn't happen now), but it goes to show - mineral oils need to get HOT to boil off the impurities and water from condensation) - over 100 deg C is best (110 is better) and 125 - 130C for fully synthetic products.
- A modern oil package is a recipe with up to/over 30% additive, and possibly 15 different components. The additives need to see these temperatures for the lubricant to be effective - I would suggest that a lot of the old boat engine sump temperatures with the rather crude water pipe coolers rarly get above 50deg C, which will encourage rust, emulsion and a lot of wear and poor performance.
Best practice is to get the coolant and oil temperatures UP! - engine performance will improve as will engine wear and longevity, and the expensive oil you have just purchased will work properly.
The only augument I came across for running a "cold engine" came from a Danish engine manufacturer (I think it was either Callesen or Grenar - "not sure of the spelling") who pointed out that many of their engines where fitted to old wooden - close boarded (no caulking) 100 y/o fishing boats - and when they increased their engine temperatures (to above 60C!!) the planks in the engine room opened up and the boats leaked!! - (It goes without saying these engines often suffered from premature liner, ring and ring groove wear)
Our only advice to him was to revert to buying our basic old mineral oils because the more modern packages were not required
It is possible some additives will separate from the oil package at lower temperatures.
Last of all - Did you know that fresh - unused engine oil (the stuff that has been on the garage shelf for the last 5 years) has a shelf life? (the answer-depends on the product - but decant into a see-through container, look and smell before using any "old" stuff!)
PS - many thanks to my ex employees E*so and C*s*r*l for (a)-the pension and (b)-all of this useless info.
The engine cooling side may need a thermostat fitted if it is that cool, motor water temp should be around 80 - 90 deg C.
Mercs are like women, no 2 are exactly alike. That's what testing is about. In general it is safer to test motors and props than women!

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rnb
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Re: Lyman On The Water

Post by rnb »

Agree with everything Alacrity/Andre has posted above lose oil cooler if only river pottering .

Regards the thermosat is it raw water cooled or a closed circuit cooling system on your boat ?

May not be a simple case of putting in a thermostat if the motor is cooled by raw water , you may need to plumb it differently .

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Alacrity
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Re: Lyman On The Water

Post by Alacrity »

Agreed Rob, but he says he has an exhaust heat exchanger?? If so (as opposed to just a water cooled manifold) he should be able to fit a 'stat in the freshwater system.
Mercs are like women, no 2 are exactly alike. That's what testing is about. In general it is safer to test motors and props than women!

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rnb
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Re: Lyman On The Water

Post by rnb »

Agreed Geoff , just wanted to pinpoint wether he had a closed heat exchanger system as opposed to only a water cooled exhaust manifold .

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Alacrity
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Re: Lyman On The Water

Post by Alacrity »

Yup, I know what you mean. :perfect: We wait with baited breath!! :tumbleweed:
Mercs are like women, no 2 are exactly alike. That's what testing is about. In general it is safer to test motors and props than women!

Alien
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Re: Lyman On The Water

Post by Alien »

Gents, sorry for the tardy reply, work takes me over-seas for weeks at a time, often not able to access internet!

The cooling system is via a water head exchanger that has cold water passing through the exhaust manifold which passs over a brass tube exchange unit. The engine cooling system is isolated from the river water and so has the advantage of being filled with normal engine coolant with all the advantages of the corrosion inhibitors etc. The oil cooler is via a direct line from the oil filter housing, this time using an aluminium heat exchanger. External river water flows first through the oil heat exchanger, then through the water pump (direct drive impellor off the front of the engine) then through the water/exhaust heat exchanger to exit with the exhaust gasses. I guess the first thing to do will be to isolate the oil cooler and see if the engine temp increass significantly. The water temprature guage is fitted into the silver bracket that splits the main hotwater hose between the water pump and the heat exchanger.

Thanks for your help and advice. Andrew.

P.S. Have attached a couple of photos of the engine which may help. Red is hot water - blue is cold/river. Simple mind!
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