Broom Rapier Mk. 2

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Re: Broom Rapier Mk. 2

Postby Woodwych » Tue May 23, 2017 8:13 pm

About 18 inches forward of the transom is a join- presumably because of the limitations in ply sheet length. Strikes me as a real weak point especially as there is a pretty flimsy batten inside. To strengthen this I have routed out a V and filled the gap using the excellent West Epoxy and the 405 filleting blend filler. During and after sanding shown in the photo.
IMG_4333.jpg
A little ply delamination from a vulnerable join. This has been wetted out and filled too.
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Re: Broom Rapier Mk. 2

Postby Alacrity » Wed May 24, 2017 7:14 am

Those 'battens' inside are probably not secure. I know of two Broom Javelin's, similar construction, where these have parted company with the hull when the boat has been bumped about a little on the water. The glue fails & looks like marmalade so may be worth carefully checking them, refixing them if at all possible.
Mercs are like women, no 2 are exactly alike. That's what testing is about. In general it is safer to test motors and props than women!
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Re: Broom Rapier Mk. 2

Postby Woodwych » Mon May 29, 2017 8:58 pm

Thanks- they have been glued and screwed!
Keel rubbing strip epoxied on and the bottom is all filled and sanded. Interesting to see the subtle distortion of the bottom from old style trailers with the keel strip being over 1cm higher where the trailer rollers were.
IMG_4348.jpg
IMG_4348.jpg (11.67 KiB) Viewed 6911 times


Flipped it over today and now a transom issue
Either a bang
or just from 30 years with the outboard hanging off it - the transom has bent backwards leaving a gap :grrr:
IMG_4350.jpg
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Am now nervously searching for "deep throat clamps " on google !
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Re: Broom Rapier Mk. 2

Postby Alacrity » Tue May 30, 2017 7:06 am

Again I had the same issue with my Jupiter, old glue turning to 'marmalade' again.
Mercs are like women, no 2 are exactly alike. That's what testing is about. In general it is safer to test motors and props than women!
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Re: Broom Rapier Mk. 2

Postby Rapier » Tue May 30, 2017 9:52 am

Woodwych wrote:Am now nervously searching for "deep throat clamps " on google !
:)

Good thing about boats that size is it's easier to turn them. I don't think that's a knock, just as Geoff says is common on these, the resorcinol glue has had it. It's a sound boat though and has been looked after, so it seems there are none of the usual horrors!
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Re: Broom Rapier Mk. 2

Postby Woodwych » Tue Jun 06, 2017 2:26 pm

It's a sound boat though and has been looked after, so it seems there are none of the usual horrors!


I was thinking exactly the same, then I found the woodworm a few days later :grrr: :grrr:

I have now calmed down and carefully removed the offending area- It was where the seat base touched the frame - it was old but the wood was crumbly for an inch or so. The excellent Robbins timber are cutting me a piece of 3/4 inch Sapele to splice in. A forensic examination everywhere else has revealed no more.

A quick survey- The cleat and fairleads seem to have been swapped round at some point. There are holes for the torpedo shaped cleat both near the transom and a couple of feet forwards. Which is correct A or B ??
IMG_4366.jpg
A

IMG_4367.jpg
B
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Re: Broom Rapier Mk. 2

Postby Rapier » Tue Jun 06, 2017 2:31 pm

A makes more sense to me; may have been moved as it was easier to lean around and tie off without getting out the seat?

Pity about the woodworm..
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Re: Broom Rapier Mk. 2

Postby Woodwych » Sun Jun 11, 2017 7:39 pm

Thanks Nick
That makes sense.I will put them back the right way.

After a long weekend (and a bad headache) I have stripped all the paint off the deck.

There is false caulking on the deck- just a very shallow groove routed on.
It looks as if this was just painted rather than filled in level with the rest of the deck.

Does anyone have any tips on how to proceed?

To complicate matters the deck to the outside of the outer groove will be painted a cream colour. If I filled the groove with Sikaflex then there would be a white/cream junction. Or Would varnish over Sikaflex make the white more of a cream colour?

And whilst we are here any tips for doing the junction between paint and varnish ?

Thanks in advance.
IMG_4372.jpg
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Re: Broom Rapier Mk. 2

Postby Rapier » Mon Jun 12, 2017 10:42 am

Mine also had shallow groves - is common on the wood Brooms. I understand that the lines were painted in, I think they used a mix of polyfilla and paint, so over time this does yellow anyway (see my centerdeck, is original and varnished with Epiphanes..and the other pic is post sikaflex). With mine bringing it up to deck level meant the varnish didn't pool. That outer groove will form a natural edge which will help when you paint the outer and varnish the inner. If the ply deck is nice I'd be tempted to varnish the whole lot :shock: . I wonder if the later models went to varnish overall, as the paint + varnish probably was more labour intensive, or maybe fashions just changed at the cusp of the 60s.
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New deck lines
Picture 957 (Large).jpg
Original deck lines
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Re: Broom Rapier Mk. 2

Postby Woodwych » Tue Jun 13, 2017 1:08 pm

Which of the Sikaflex caulks works best- and can be sanded?
And what varnish worked over the top?

The internet is full of horrors of caulk not setting/varnish not adhering..!

The deck isn't really lovely enough for varnish- and has a lot of steel nails along the edges which were intended to be covered and painted. It must have been a design statement of the times to have paint mostly but the kidney shapes on the foredeck varnished and striped. I will be barrier coating it with epoxy 1st anyhow so we can see how it looks then.
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