buoyancy foam or not

[floater]

I am planning to replace the floor on my Waverider Mustang (shakespeare clubman) and would appreciate the opinion of the collective as to weather I should fill the area under the floor with buoyancy foam. the area is naturaly sealed with grp bulkheads fore and aft and has a drainpipe running through to drain water from the bows to the stern. I would like to do it to reduce the risk of sinking if the hull gets holed as the boat currently has no fixed buoyancy either bags or foam. What are the possible unwanted consequences of filling this void area with foam?

Thanks all

Dave H

[Rapier]

There are many schools of thought for and against. If you do decide to go with foam, remember that it's taken 40+ years for most Dell Quays to get soggy and you'll be wormfood, or on a mantelpiece, before it deteriorates in your boat. I waver between the two and have just decided to avoid foam in preference to 'fun noodles' cable tied together and stuffed in the void. If you want to go with a cheap version, find a Valiant rib dealer who can give you their transport packing. I think is the same stuff.

[Rapier]

Meant to add that most of the problem with foam comes from the breakdown of it or the fact is not closed-cell; which am sure you know in your business.

[se7en]

I'd put the floor in without foam, and make sure you put a drain bung in it, this way you can drain this area if you get a little water trapped,the area under the floor will give the same bouyancy with or without foam if it is sealed, , if you holed the boat below the floor the boat should still float as the sealed floor would keep the water from filling the boat above floor level, you would just float a little lower...! which would be the same with or without foam, as Rapier said, two pack foam is not sealed cell, and foam filled boats just get heavier all the time as they get water saturation. either way,if the boat totally flooded the boat would not float the right way up, all the bouyancy is to low down, Just make sure you fit a good bilge pump and wear life jackets, the little boat has managed to stay afloat for the last 30 years or so, so it should manage it a little longer I would think..... Clive

[Johng]

hi Clive I think you have answered a question for me, my inner floor has been partially cut out by a previous owner, so in doing so, he's removed a layer of defence if my boat hull was ever holed, i.e. the whole boat would fill up..

John

[floater]

Thanks for the replies. I liked the idea of a foam filled void under the floor lending a bit of strength to the outer skin at its flattest therefore weakest area which is what started me thinking about it, but see the point that if I seal the whole floor I effectively have a big air tank. I was thinking of using the two part material as closed cell foam is expensive and would need fitting but see this could end up being a sponge, polystyrene packaging may be a good compromise if I left it an inch off the hull to allow any water to drain and fit a bung as se7en suggests.
This is plannned to be the family boat so we will all be wearing jackets, the bilge pump will be more powerful than the engine and we will carry VHF, flares etc and thats just on the river!

Dave H

[Alacrity]

Someone correct me if I am wrong but I don't think polystyrene (what ever happened to that punk 'artiste' ?? ) is closed cell either.

[Tremlett 15]

Geoff, dont know but see

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls= ... n&ct=title

http://www.closedcellfoams.com/

its all over my head , I just use an "air bag" in T15, ( wood & xxxx float !! ) I had to say it before one of you

[floater]

Polystyrene strictly speaking isnt closed cell but by keeping it an inch or more above the inside of the hull in what should be a reasonably sealed space it should not get wet.

DH

[Sans_Sauce]

I am thinking of doing my Ace Cruiser but if I do I propose to put the (ideally) two part foam into a largeish polythene bag so that it takes up the shape and won't absorb so much water but can be removed for repairs etc. That is of course if you have access to lift the floors for instance. I guess builders foam would be OK but two part is easier to calculate how much you need. I did say easier and not easy as temperature and humidity plays a massive part in the process and experimentation is costly.
Cheers
SS