Albatross prop removal

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Diomedea
Posts: 158
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 8:36 pm

Re: Albatross prop removal

Post by Diomedea »

Thanks for all the interest in my topic.
Yes, it's left hand thread....
I agree that this is nice engineering, pity that it did not quite work in that the prop moved along the sleeve rather than relieving the taper and there was not enough threaded length to pull the prop off completely all by itself.
Like many things, once you see it in pieces it makes sense.
Pity the designer could not get a groove in the inside of the prop which could house a circlip which would have then ensured that the sleeve would be pulled off as well.
I doubt that I can find a way to do that but I'll give it some thought.
Anyway, I plan to make a replacement sleeve as this one is a bit iffy.
Regards

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solitaire
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Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:02 am
CMBA Member: 511
Location: Cheselbourne - Nr Dorchester

Re: Albatross prop removal

Post by solitaire »

I still have the 1/2" x 20 UNF "left hand" tap for your prop nut if you need to borrow it!
Cheers - A'

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Alacrity
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Re: Albatross prop removal

Post by Alacrity »

Normally the prop would come off with the sleeve - well at least that has been the experience of the one I refer to but I agree a s/s circlip would be a good idea.
Mercs are like women, no 2 are exactly alike. That's what testing is about. In general it is safer to test motors and props than women!

Diomedea
Posts: 158
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 8:36 pm

Re: Albatross prop removal

Post by Diomedea »

Thanks Sinbad, just bought a set :console:
Thanks again for the strong support and I'll post progress from time to time

Tim
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed May 27, 2009 8:47 pm

Re: Albatross prop removal

Post by Tim »

The layout of the shaft, the split sleeve, captive nut in the propeller is standard. The fettling on the sleeve is to give more friction between it and the prop, rather than the shaft, so that it comes with the prop easily. If the prop starts coming off the sleeve, use heat to expand the prop and the sleeve, before the prop is too far off the sleeve. It should be possible to change a prop in the water.

You are quite right that the keyless coupling is to avoiddamaged keys and keyways if you hit flotsam with the prop.

In my Mk.3 I have a keyless connection to the engine as well, using the diferential of two different pitches of threads.

As you have obviously found, the cut out in the bottom of the leading edge of the rudder is to alow the shaft to be withdrawn. On some boats the rudders are offset to alow the shafts to be withdrawn, with the rudder in place.

Tim.

Diomedea
Posts: 158
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 8:36 pm

Re: Albatross prop removal

Post by Diomedea »

Thanks everybody.
Progress is a little slow but this week I managed to make a new sleeve, sadly a few thou small on the diameter. There is always th tendency just to take a final cut.
Anyway I still have enough material for another go but a funny yellow thing in a strangely blue sky diverted the attention of myself and the lady wife....
Better enjoy it while we can I suppose.
I'll post more pics of version two when it work.
Regards
:perfect:

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