Views on epoxy sheathing..

[Woodwych]

I'm wondering on whether to sheath my new project (a 12ft Pencraft made of marine ply currently just painted) and would appreciate opinions.
Its going to spend 6months a year in the rather murky waters of the Macclesfield canal and use on the canals does seem to have a higher risk of scrapes and knocks so the sheathing would give much greater protection.
Thanks

[se7en]

West system epoxy works very well,its the industry standard, but you must do it as per there instructions, do not be tempted to cut corners, you only want to do it once, so do it with the best products, log onto West system or Wessex resins web site and read there instuction manuals, if done correctly your boat will last for years.

[Alacrity]

If she has a painted hull then yes epoxy & sheathing will be a good idea, it will make her more resistant to scrapes, make her stronger & will make her completely watertight. All this applies only if it is done correctly, all paint will need to be removed so the wood is bare, clean & dry. See Wessex Resins for very helpful advice. If done right & filled & faired afterwards you won't be able to tell it has been done once painted.

[Alacrity]

Se7en beat me too it!!!

[sean-nós]

There are some photos below in my crackerbox link that show how I did mine I will also be encapsulating the inside with epoxy resin to seal everything up.

[Woodwych]

Thank you all.
I was worried I was committing a crime against authenticity!
I'll make sure to do it properly.

[puddleduck]

I also recommend you get the Gougeon (West System epoxies) booklet 'Wooden Boat Restoration & Repair'. I've had this in my library since it was first published in 1990 - excellent.

chairman chris

[Woodwych]

Thanks, the West System info is really comprehensive and useful.
Have others gone with just epoxy or epoxy and glass fibre cloth? the restoration booklet shows both techniques.
To be honest I'm concerned that I'll make a complete hash of applying the cloth !

[Alacrity]

Cloth for strength & durability is the only way in my book. Take your time & learn on the bits you don't see as much such as the underside - don't forget you always fill & fair afterwards before paint.

[floater]

The risk with applying cloth is the pot life of the resin which can start curing before you are done fiddling. I have used SP systems Ampreg 21 in the past when I needed a good long pot life, it also has a very low viscosity so wets into the cloth and wood quickly and easily. The downside is that it is chuffing expensive (around £85 for 3kg) and it produces an Amine blush which leaves the surface with a greasy surface when cured, this washes off with water which is no trouble but you risk getting parts wet that you have yet to coat. dont be tempted to use polyester resin although much cheaper (£20 for 5kg) as the pot life is very short meaning you need to work fast not easy for a novice, and it is not so good at wetting into the wood.

Take time on preperation plan the work well and have everything to hand, you can even have pre-measured cups of hardener and resin so you are not fumbling around weighing out more halfway through the job although the West system dispensing pumps work well for rapid mixing. as Alacrity says start on a small unseen area to familiarise yourself with the process.

Most Epoxy resins need the temperature to be above 10 deg C so you have plenty of time to read the Gougon brothers book and consider your options in the current climate!

Good luck