Albatross rear subframe

[maltalbatross]

I was browsing the web looking for Albatross pictures when I came across this picture of the rear subframe. (please not picture is not my property)

[img=http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/5403/subframe.jpg]

Mine is missing, is it that vital to have? or can I do without? and is it hard to fabricate yourself? maybe some kind soul can provide me with the dimensions

[BroomBroom]

Hi all...

maltalbatross is a fellow restoration 'blogger' who I advised to post here as he'd get a response - so grateful if you Alby experts could lend a hand here please! I'm not much help as aluminium only seems to bend where I don't want it to in my hands...

Cheers,

R

[Jaguar]

Hi, I have an A series that I can send photo's and dimensions of.........I can get them done over the weekend if thats any help to you.........

Tim

[glynn]

Hi Malta
just got my boat back from haveing some paint removed
If you had no joy yet let me know
Glynn

[Tim]

Dear Albi Owner.

To answer the first question, yes it is vital, as it supports the "P" bracket and the lower bearing for the rudder. It is simply three pieces of aluminium flanged and riveted to the two longitudinals, the bottom and the transom.

As long as you have the widths of the flanges, the best way is to lift a template from your boat, and add the flanges, starting with the transverse member, which in shipbuilding parlance is a "floor", and then the two longitudinals.

When assembliong it, I would put in the two longitudinals, and drill the rivet holes from the holes in the Transom and the bottom, and then bolt it up. then fit the "floor", and drill that off the four longitudinals, and the bottom. after this you can dismantle, deburr clean, paint and reassembel and rivet.

Dont forget to use NS% aluminium sheet, and NR5 rivets, solid not Pop>

Good luck, let me know if you have any problems. I got some NR5 rivets recently at a reasonable price, fom someone who was supplying rivets for the rebuild of the "Medway Queen" a 180 ft paddle steamer.

Yours,
Tim.

[twister]

Bit late on this one, sorry about that...

If you study the construction of the 'Aft Subframe', you'll realise that it offers more stiffness fore & aft than it does across the beam. At the P-Bracket, most of the loads are acrossways, and it's thought that this is one reason that hulls often crack in this area from vibration etc.

Some years ago, Ray Wright & I came up with an alternative solution. We used this on 2 or 3 boats, and the P-Bracket was vastly stiffer...it made a neat but non-original job that I'd do again.

We took out completely the pair of short fore & aft members over the P-bracket, realising as we did so that they weren't over strong. The flange against the transom was cut off close, so as not to disturb the rivets/paintwork; fwd we just took the rivets out. Then we formed, hot bent from 1/4" x 6" aluminium flat, a transverse member that rested on top of each longitudinal bearer, cranked down, and met the hull over the P-bracket with a flat about 6" square. This we bolted to the bearers, drilled the P-bracket holes through from under the hull, removed, and re-set using silicone between it and the hull, bolting everything inc P-bracket down tight.

Worth thinking about, perhaps...

[reckless]

I have made this modification to my boat during restoration because the two fore and aft pieces were damaged and the hull around the P bracket mount was cracked and pitted. I have photos that I can pass on to anyone who is interested. The end result is that the P bracket bolts onto a section of hull that is now 9mm thick instead of the original 4.5 and as Rod says, the stiffness is in the right direction too.

Andy

[Good buy]

H Glynn i see you are ding a climax A series up as well have you got an engine for the boat ?

Hi Malta
just got my boat back from haveing some paint removed
If you had no joy yet let me know
Glynn

[glynn]

Hi A series
I do have a engine for boat .But not a original climax