Additionally; I am after any engine or cooling spares for this Rootes 1600cc engine.
Any Holbay parts.
Any info on the modification to provide a clutch?
Any accurate info on the correct prop.
A nice steering wheel.
cheers steve
Nav light wanted......and more!
-
suicide jockey
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Fri Aug 21, 2009 6:50 am
- CMBA Member: 755
- Location: Wickham Bishops
Nav light wanted......and more!
I am looking for the correct nav light for a 1961 (unconfirmed) Alpine 4 seat slipper stern. The frame No is 2003.
Additionally; I am after any engine or cooling spares for this Rootes 1600cc engine.
Any Holbay parts.
Any info on the modification to provide a clutch?
Any accurate info on the correct prop.
A nice steering wheel.
cheers steve
Additionally; I am after any engine or cooling spares for this Rootes 1600cc engine.
Any Holbay parts.
Any info on the modification to provide a clutch?
Any accurate info on the correct prop.
A nice steering wheel.
cheers steve
Plenty more boats in the sea!!!!!!
Re: Nav light wanted......and more!
Just fit the complete standard clutch assy & slave cylinder. I used an Austin Metro handbrake mounted to the stiffener under the front floor actuating a low profile master cylinder with in-line reservoir tank (ebay the lot). The only real mods are to the drive shaft & gearbox, namely.
1. Find an input shaft with bearing & cover flange from a Sunbeam Alpine gearbox. (fit new sealed for life bearing as there's no gearbox oil for lubrication)
2. Mate it to your original bronze drive shaft (fit new sealed-for=life thrust bearing so no oil needed in gearbox).
3. Machine the gearbox to fit the input shaft cover flange & bearing
4. Find bronze bush (or needle bearing)to fit end of crankshaft for input shaft.
I've now done it twice, with a Pinto 2L & an H120 in my Alpines (2026 & 2022). Much better than a dog clutch. You can even slip the clutch so you'll do less damage if boating in shallow waters on tickover & hit something.
Prop depends so much on BHP & what you want it to do. You'll need expert advice from a supplier. For skiing you'll want a 4 blade prop. For cruising or speed, a 2 blade prop. Or a 3 blade all-rounder prop. I'd dump the 1600cc block & get the 1725 if you can which can bore out to 2L if in really good nick (called the Brazilian by the racing fraternity of the time). My H120 has a 3 blade 10" prop & is about right for skiing & cruising. Remember the law of diminishing returns. 5000RPM is the max you need on any prop. Remember to also tell the supplier the hull type, engine BHP & average boat weight as well as usage. Don't forget that cupping will increase grip for skiing purposes. Usually costs a bit extra. Radice make good props & is what Ray Wright used to use.
Hopefully you've got the header tank that sits between the rocker cover & the carbs. It's welded ally so is easy to make, just not cheap. The filler cap is cast & marked 'Water' - harder to find as it's a screw thread rather than twist. (note, pressureless cooling system). A metal bender will form the ally pipework for you. I's all 1 1/4". Raw water cooling is via a centrifugal Stuart pump which feeds a copper coil laid in the sump (although I use a proper oil cooler now) before being injected via 1/8" ID pipes welded into the exhaust manifold.
If you manage to find an original light binnacle in good condition (they were prone to pitting badly), expect to pay a lot of money for it (£300+). I've got 4 new ones but I'd rather sell my Granny than sell one of those. If you'd like a badly pitted one for doing up, I'd be happy to let you have one though.
You'll find our Alpines on YouTube.
Good luck
1. Find an input shaft with bearing & cover flange from a Sunbeam Alpine gearbox. (fit new sealed for life bearing as there's no gearbox oil for lubrication)
2. Mate it to your original bronze drive shaft (fit new sealed-for=life thrust bearing so no oil needed in gearbox).
3. Machine the gearbox to fit the input shaft cover flange & bearing
4. Find bronze bush (or needle bearing)to fit end of crankshaft for input shaft.
I've now done it twice, with a Pinto 2L & an H120 in my Alpines (2026 & 2022). Much better than a dog clutch. You can even slip the clutch so you'll do less damage if boating in shallow waters on tickover & hit something.
Prop depends so much on BHP & what you want it to do. You'll need expert advice from a supplier. For skiing you'll want a 4 blade prop. For cruising or speed, a 2 blade prop. Or a 3 blade all-rounder prop. I'd dump the 1600cc block & get the 1725 if you can which can bore out to 2L if in really good nick (called the Brazilian by the racing fraternity of the time). My H120 has a 3 blade 10" prop & is about right for skiing & cruising. Remember the law of diminishing returns. 5000RPM is the max you need on any prop. Remember to also tell the supplier the hull type, engine BHP & average boat weight as well as usage. Don't forget that cupping will increase grip for skiing purposes. Usually costs a bit extra. Radice make good props & is what Ray Wright used to use.
Hopefully you've got the header tank that sits between the rocker cover & the carbs. It's welded ally so is easy to make, just not cheap. The filler cap is cast & marked 'Water' - harder to find as it's a screw thread rather than twist. (note, pressureless cooling system). A metal bender will form the ally pipework for you. I's all 1 1/4". Raw water cooling is via a centrifugal Stuart pump which feeds a copper coil laid in the sump (although I use a proper oil cooler now) before being injected via 1/8" ID pipes welded into the exhaust manifold.
If you manage to find an original light binnacle in good condition (they were prone to pitting badly), expect to pay a lot of money for it (£300+). I've got 4 new ones but I'd rather sell my Granny than sell one of those. If you'd like a badly pitted one for doing up, I'd be happy to let you have one though.
You'll find our Alpines on YouTube.
Good luck